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The History of Tipping in Restaurants: The Complicated Past, Present, and Future

7 Shifts

When you dine out at a restaurant, you tip your server. Its founder, George Pullman, hired newly liberated Southern black men as porters and servers. Thomas Keller nixed tipping at Per Se in 2005. And Danny Meyer created the Hospitality Included service model, increasing menu prices to offset higher wages.

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How to Cook a Direwolf

EATER

It was served with accompaniments, one of which was an asparagus relish; at another table, the server was explaining how he’d seen the chef arranging the asparagus on her bread like dragon scales while testing out the recipe. Nothing outwardly distinguished her from the other servers, unless you already knew who she was.

Book 103
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Feed the Rich, Save the Planet?

EATER

Hundreds of teachers adopted the program, carrying Stone Barns’ message beyond its tony Pocantico Hills campus — in 2016, it noted that the “vast majority of participating students come from economically disadvantaged communities, with 72 percent qualifying for free or reduced-price school lunch.”. Stan Honda/AFP via Getty Images.